Start at the rear and work your way forward, like illustrated in the photo above. Use a flat screwdriver to pop the plastic hold-downs under the panel. However, the running board cover needs to be removed first. The plastic kick panel will need to be removed.These steps should easily save you a few hours of frustration! This harness requires getting to the major connector behind the fuse box under the drivers side dash.Īccess to the Exterior of the Drivers Side Fuse Box This part was comically difficult for me. Don't let it cut the air bag wires underneath, however. Peel those suckers back far enough and the switch will just drop of it's own accord. Once cut, use a flat head screwdriver to peel back the halves past the column circumference.Use a vacuum or rags to keep metal shavings from flying all over the place. Cut carefully, but don't freak out if you mar the column tube a little. Use a Dremel and cut-off disc to carefully cut a slot through the top of the band.Who knows what'll happen after reconnecting the battery! The Honda Service Manual states that the heads can be center-punched and drilled out that may be an easier option for you. Personally, I think you'd be nuts to be hammering like a banshee on the very structure that holds the most explosive component of a vehicle. Some people have chiseled these bolts off and others have hammered slots into them effectively turning them into slotted screws.You must get past these now-featureless heads to loosen the metal band that holds the assembly in place. Look carefully and you may see some fractured circular metal in the center of the bolts that's where the hex heads used to be. These were originally hex bolts whose heads are configured to shear off once tightened past a set torque. This is the clamping band that holds the ignition assembly to the column.
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